Ever pointed your camera at the moon, only to end up with a tiny, blurry dot instead of the stunning shot you were hoping for? You’re not alone! But don’t worry — astrophotography isn’t as tricky as it seems once you have the right gear and a few key tips to guide you.

We spoke with Lizzie James, Product Specialist at Jessops, to get her advice on how to get started with astrophotography, what you’ll need, and the best cameras and lenses to level up your images.

Whether you’re chasing crisp shots of the moon, galaxies, or even venturing into deep-sky photography, our guide will have you capturing twinkling night skies in no time!

Contents

What is astrophotography?

What you’ll need

Tips for photographing the night sky (the basics)

How to connect your camera to your telescope

The best cameras and equipment for astrophotography

Best budget-friendly camera: Nikon Z F Mirrorless Camera

Best professional camera: Nikon D850 Digital SLR

Best lens: Sigma 14mm F1.4 DG DN Art Lens (Sony E-mount)

Best telescope: Unistellar eQuinox 2 Smart Telescope

Frequently asked questions

A mirrorless or DSLR camera

While some smartphones and compact point-and-shoot cameras can capture the night sky, a DSLR or mirrorless camera will give you far more control and better image quality. 

These cameras have larger sensors, which means they can gather more light — essential when photographing distant stars and faint galaxies. Plus, they allow you to swap lenses, giving you the flexibility to shoot everything from wide Milky Way panoramas to detailed lunar close-ups.

Choosing a camera with manual mode is also a good idea. Unlike auto settings, which struggle in low light and often leave you with a grainy, underexposed image, manual mode lets you fine-tune key settings like shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. This means you can adjust your exposure to capture the finest celestial details.

Looking for a new camera? Check out our Beginner’s Guide to Choosing the Best Digital Camera for expert advice on finding the right one.

“The key thing is to choose a lens with a wide aperture (f/4 or lower). This lets in more light, which is crucial for night photography, helping to reveal intricate details without excessive noise."

To learn more, read our Lens Buying Guide.

A sturdy tripod

Astrophotography relies on long exposure times, meaning your camera needs to stay perfectly still to capture sharp, detailed images of the night sky. Even the slightest movement — whether from wind, vibrations, or an unsteady surface — can turn stars into blurry streaks. That's why a sturdy tripod is an essential piece of kit.

Lizzie explains: "A good tripod makes all the difference when you're shooting the night sky. Carbon fibre styles are great if you want something lightweight and easy to carry, but aluminium tripods tend to be sturdier and more budget-friendly.”

“Whichever you go for, make sure it has adjustable, lockable legs so you can set up on uneven ground. This is especially useful if you're out in remote locations!"

The steadier the setup, the sharper your night sky shots will be!

Shutter release cable or intervalometer

Even the slightest movement can blur your astrophotography shots, and pressing the shutter button manually can introduce unwanted vibrations. That’s where a shutter release cable or intervalometer comes in handy.

A shutter release cable is a simple remote that lets you take a photo without touching your camera while it’s on a tripod. This helps keep your shots sharp, especially when using long exposure times.

An intervalometer takes things a step further. It allows you to program multiple exposures at set intervals, making it perfect for capturing star trails or creating time-lapse sequences of the night sky. 

Some modern cameras even have built-in interval shooting features, but if yours doesn’t, an external intervalometer is a great investment for astrophotographers looking to take hands-free, long-exposure shots with precision.

A star tracker

A star tracker attaches between your tripod and camera and slowly rotates to match the movement of the stars. This means you can take much longer exposures without getting star trails, letting in more light and revealing fainter details in the night sky.

Because you're gathering more light over a longer period, you don't have to crank up the ISO as much to brighten the image. Lower ISO means less noise, so your shots will look cleaner and more detailed.

Pair it with a tracking mount, and you’ll be able to take longer exposures without star trails, capturing faint, deep-sky objects with way more detail.

A red torch

When you’re out in the dark, it can be tricky to see your camera settings, adjust your gear, and find your way around. You’ll need a light to help, but using a standard white light torch can make it harder to see stars clearly and forces your eyes to readjust every time you turn it on.

That’s where a red torch comes in handy. Unlike white light, red light preserves your night vision, allowing you to see what you’re doing without affecting your night vision.

For the best results, go for a head torch with a red light mode — it'll keep your hands free while you sort out your camera setup!

Some warm clothes

Astrophotography often involves spending hours outside at night, and temperatures can drop fast — even in summer! Dressing in warm, layered clothing will help keep you comfortable while waiting for the perfect shot.

Even if it feels mild when you head out, pack extra layers — you’ll thank yourself later!

Plan ahead

Lizzie says: “You might think capturing a star or the Milky Way is as simple as heading outside and pointing your camera at the sky. But in reality, timing is everything.”

“Despite the countless photos of the Milky Way online, the window for capturing it is smaller than you might think — unless you live on the South Coast! From mid-UK latitudes, Milky Way season runs from April to May and then again from mid-August to September, as astronomical darkness is lost during the summer months.”

“For the best visibility, aim to shoot three days either side of the new moon when the sky is darkest. But don’t worry if you’ve missed the peak season — the Milky Way is still visible, just without its bright core, and the night sky is full of other incredible sights to capture. In late summer, for example, the constellation Cygnus dominates the sky.”

A great way to plan your shots is to use an app like PhotoPills or Stellarium. These help you track when and where the Milky Way, planets, meteor showers, and other celestial events will be visible in your location.

Adjust your camera settings

Astrophotography is all about capturing as much light as possible while keeping stars sharp and clear. Auto mode won’t cut it in the dark, so you’ll need to adjust your settings manually to get the best results.

Lizzie says: "Your camera settings make a huge difference when shooting the night sky. Some simple tweaks can help you bring out details you'd never see with the naked eye."

"The most important thing is getting the right balance between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO — also known as the exposure triangle. It's key to achieving the perfect exposure for your scene and lighting conditions."

Here are the key settings to start with:

Shutter speed

Use a long exposure — typically between 10 and 30 seconds — to let in enough light without causing star trails (unless that’s the effect you want!)

If you’re capturing deep-sky objects like galaxies, you often need even longer exposures because these objects are much fainter than the stars visible to the naked eye. A longer shutter speed allows your camera to collect more light, bringing out intricate details that would otherwise be lost in the darkness.

Lizzie recommends: “To get the perfect shutter speed for your lens, you could try the 500 rule. It gives you a quick estimate of the longest shutter speed you can use before stars start trailing.”

• For full-frame cameras — 500 ÷ focal length = maximum shutter speed (in seconds)

• For crop sensor (APS-C) cameras — 500 ÷ (focal length × crop factor) = maximum shutter speed

For example, if you're using a 24mm lens on a full-frame camera, try: 500 ÷ 24 = 20.8 seconds. So, set your shutter speed to 20 seconds or less to keep stars clear.

On a camera with a 1.5x crop factor, first, multiply your focal length: 24mm × 1.5 = 36mm. Then, apply the 500 rule: 500 ÷ 36 = 13.9 seconds. So, set your shutter speed to 13 seconds or less.

To learn more, read our guide on What is Shutter Speed?

Aperture

Keep your aperture as wide as possible (f/2.8 or lower) to gather more light. A wider aperture allows your camera to perform better in low-light conditions, making stars appear brighter and clearer while reducing the need for a super-high ISO, which can introduce unwanted noise.

ISO

ISO controls how sensitive your camera sensor is to light. In astrophotography, where you're shooting in near-total darkness, you'll need a higher ISO than you would in normal photography to bring out details in the night sky.

However, increasing the ISO too much can introduce grain (noise), which can reduce image clarity. The key is to find the right balance — bright enough to capture stars and celestial details but not so high that your image becomes too noisy.

Most cameras perform well in the ISO 1600–3200 range, making this a good starting point. However, if your image still looks too dark, try increasing the ISO to 6400 or higher.

If the image looks too grainy, lower the ISO and compensate with a wider aperture (if possible) or a longer shutter speed. 

To find out more, take a look at our guide on What Is ISO In Photography?

White balance

White balance controls the colour temperature of your image, helping to prevent unnatural colour casts — like an orange or blue tint. In astrophotography, setting the right white balance ensures your stars and sky look natural and true to life.

Lizzie says: "I usually avoid auto white balance because it can shift colours unpredictably, especially in dark conditions. Instead, I set it manually using Kelvin (K), the unit that measures colour temperature. This gives me full control over how warm or cool the image looks. Around 4200K is a great starting point for a neutral, natural-looking sky."

Image stabilisation

Image stabilisation (IS) or vibration reduction (VR) is great for handheld photography, but when shooting long exposures for astrophotography, it can actually do more harm than good.

Lizzie explains: "Image stabilisation detects movement and makes tiny adjustments to compensate. But when your camera is locked on a tripod, the system can misinterpret small vibrations or even its own movement, causing unnecessary corrections that lead to slight blurriness."

If your lens has a physical IS/VR switch, turn it off before shooting. Some mirrorless cameras have in-body stabilisation (IBIS), which should also be turned off in the camera's settings when capturing long exposures.

The only time stabilisation is useful in low light is if you're shooting handheld night shots. But for true astrophotography, always use a tripod and turn stabilisation off to ensure the sharpest possible stars.

Focus

Switch to manual focus and set your lens to infinity (∞) to capture the sharpest images of the night sky. Autofocus struggles in low light, so it’s best to focus manually.

Use your camera’s live view mode and magnify the image to fine-tune focus on a bright star. Slowly adjust the focus ring until the star appears as small and sharp as possible.

Every camera and lens combination is different, so take a few test shots and tweak your settings as needed to get the clearest results!

You don’t need a telescope for astrophotography, but if you have one, it opens up a whole new world — literally. Unlike a standard camera lens, a telescope gives you far greater magnification and light-gathering power, letting you capture stunning close-ups of Saturn’s rings, the Moon’s craters, and even deep-sky objects like galaxies and nebulae.

Not all telescopes are ideal for photography, though — some reflecting telescopes won’t focus properly with a camera attached. It’s always worth checking online forums or reviews to see if your model is compatible.

To attach your camera to a telescope, you’ll need a couple of key accessories:

• T-ring adapter — This replaces your camera’s lens and connects to its mount (e.g., Canon, Nikon, Sony).

• T-adapter — This attaches to the T-ring and slots into your telescope’s focuser, letting the telescope act as a giant camera lens.

Here's a general guide on how to do it:

1. Remove the camera lens — Remove your regular lens, leaving the camera body ready to be attached to the telescope.

2. Attach the T-ring — Secure the T-ring adapter onto your camera’s lens mount, just like you’d attach a normal lens.

3. Connect the T-adapter — Screw the T-adapter onto the T-ring, creating a direct connection between your camera and telescope.

4. Mount it to the telescope — Insert the T-adapter into the telescope’s focuser, just like an eyepiece. Make sure everything is firmly secured to prevent any movement when shooting.

Just keep in mind that some telescopes may work differently, so it's always best to check your manual for specific instructions.

Once your camera is attached, use your telescope's focus knob to sharpen the image. A bright object like the Moon or a large star is the best place to start. Telescopes don't have autofocus, so you'll need to fine-tune the focus manually until the details look crisp. 

Since the telescope is acting as your camera's lens, you won't be able to look through the telescope's eyepiece like you normally would. Instead, you'll need to use your camera's live view screen to see what you're capturing. 

When you're ready to take the shot, avoid pressing the shutter button manually, as even small vibrations can blur the image. Instead, use a shutter release cable or remote trigger for the best results.

Whether you're chasing the Northern Lights, capturing crystal-clear star fields, or zooming in on the craters of the moon, we've got everything you need to bring the night sky into focus. 

Explore a range of mirrorless and DSLR cameras, telescopes, lenses, and more to take your astrophotography to the next level.

Need a little inspiration? Check out our blog for more expert tips and advice. And if you're not sure which kit is right for you, contact us — we're always happy to help you find the perfect setup!